As a university-trained contemporary jeweller and someone who is passionate about jewellery, I recently completed some further education in the form of a Diploma of Gemmology.
What prompted me was that the original university course I studied didn’t touch on gems at all, and even though I felt I knew a lot about them, I quickly discovered that all is not what it seems in the world of gemstones.
For a jeweller, a simple ring re-sizing or remodeling of a piece can be the cause of confusion, if not nightmares, if you are not 100 per cent sure about what you are looking at. There are so many "traps for young players" in the form of treatments, synthetics and simulants in the market.
And then there is the occasional piece that arrives on my bench with an incorrect valuation certificate.
In fact, recently I was working on a piece of chalcedony only to find, under closer inspection, it was actually paste and full of bubbles!
Some of these treatments can be extremely hard to spot if you don’t know what you are looking for, hence my motivation for going "back to school". Alternatively, some of them can be promptly identified with a 10x lens.
Now having the confidence to be able to make my own independent appraisal of the piece before beginning work on it is priceless.
Further education has helped me learn about all the different stones that are mined and cut in ways that I had no idea existed. This has certainly stirred my imagination with all the possible colours and shapes at my disposal.
I’ve also discovered that gemmology provides a basis for a better understanding of other specialised jewellery skills, such as lapidary and stone-setting.
I feel that a clearer understanding of all of the processes that go into making a piece of jewellery culminates in exceptional designs that push the boundaries of innovation. There is also an added aspect of functionality that allows the setting to be customised to the stone it supports, depending on its characteristics.
Art and fashion create trends that trickle down into our industry and I have detected a shift in public interest towards more unusually-coloured gemstones.
Many new brides are choosing unique contemporary designs with unusual stones in an effort to represent the special bond that they share with their beloved.
A thorough knowledge of the individual gemstones can add more depth to a sales pitch. When a client is looking for a deep green stone, you know instantly which stones to pull out and show them. If the client suggests that they want to wear the stone every day, you know to put away the emerald.
Story-telling is a powerful sales tool.
Weaving a story around a piece of jewellery can create a connection between the buyer and the item, prompting the client to feel special about owning the piece you are discussing.
Educating the client about who designed and made the jewellery, what gives the stone its colour and characteristics, where it is found and how it is formed can assist in creating that story.
Providing expert advice on handling and cleaning pieces also helps seal the deal. For instance, instructing the customer about the importance of keeping chemicals and perfumes away from organic gems such as pearls and amber, and how this can extend the life of jewellery considerably, can have the added bonus of creating a happier long-term, loyal customer.
These are all things I learnt in my studies.On a personal note, I can now enjoy the benefits of being able to make an educated evaluation of a stone at an auction, pawnbrokers, op shop, or a little flea market in Marrakesh …
Let’s face it, who doesn’t want to pick up a bargain with an exotic story to boot?
So, excuse me while I head out and have a little fossick around the Inverell for some deep inky blue sapphires, haggle with some gem dealers in Rajasthan, or survey an ancient Nephrite jade mine in Guatemala.
Amina McPhee is a Melbourne-based jewellery designer/maker.