Cool change for jewellery trends
5.6 k views | By Carla Caruso • Journalist
Jewellery suppliers are revisiting eighties excess and bohemian chic this autumn and winter, as well as venturing to the dark side. CARLA CARUSO reports.
It’s that time of year again when shop shelves are undergoing reshuffles and new pieces are being ushered in, breathing new life into stores.
To entice customers to step inside, window displays need to be "on trend" and bursting with popular, saleable styles that complement autumn/winter wardrobes.
Sharon Rae, the principal of Melbourne’s Fashion Forecast Services, refers to the US Pantone Fashion Colour Report when assessing the trends for the season ahead. For autumn/winter, the report says red, purple, honey-yellow, iron ("the new black"), crème brulee (a greyed-down beige), burnt sienna (an earthy orange), rose, warm olive, and teal blue are the most directional hues.
Trend-wise, there are a few dominant looks worth tapping-into, particularly "toughened chic", "flashy 1980s", "glam bohemian", and "ultra classic".
Toughened chic has also been labelled "biker brigade" by Style.com, which reported, "Designers went ‘hog wild’ for zipped and shrunken toppers this season. Balmain's Christophe Decarnin is the poster boy for the tough-chic trend, of course, but Haider Ackermann, Alexander Wang and Roland Mouret also revved up the look's ‘have-to-have-it’ factor."
Likewise, jewellery is also toughening-up. US blogger Lisa Jesse of Lisa Jesse’s Jewelry Trends says chains, in particular, have forged a comeback: "Designs run the gamut – from delicate, dangling gold earrings to bold, bib-style necklaces, composed of dozens of strands of chains."
Silver, multi-strand necklaces and chain belts are looks Sydney fashion jewellery line Chrissy L is also showcasing in its Leaving Las Vegas winter collection.
As well, German unisex silver jewellery brand Thomas Sabo has hardened up its autumn/winter line with pendants shaped like ravens, feathers, skulls, crosses and snakes, stones including black cubic zirconia and smoky quartz, and materials such as blackened sterling silver and black cord.
Celeste Ferraris, brand manager for Thomas Sabo at Sydney supplier Duraflex, says, "The three key lines in the Thomas Sabo sterling silver collection – Rebel At Heart, Seasonal and Classic – are highlighted by depth, mystery, light and emotion. A black zirconia pavé-set raven, poet’s quill and raven feather bring mysticism and drama to the Rebel At Heart line, which is perfectly contrasted with the radiant, glamour angels and elegant feathers in the seasonal Peaceful Angels range."
Ferraris continues: "Purple continues to make a strong resurgence into both overseas and Australian markets. Rich purple hues bring warm and cool properties into fashion pieces."
Also picking up on the dark mood, and perhaps influenced by the Twilight vampire phenomenon is the Karl Rossi Collection, which has incorporated black diamonds into its latest releases. "Originally people thought, ‘Who’s going to buy a black diamond?’ Now, all these international brands are doing it and it’s in the magazines, so it’s slowly seeping into Australia," says Steve der Bedrossian, Karl Rossi managing director. "We’ve been doing the look for two to three years now," he adds, mentioning that the brand is also concentrating on other coloured diamonds, such as pink, yellow and brown, rather than coloured stones.
The 1980s is also proving the decade that fashion won’t forget, according to Style.com, which states, "Marc Jacobs led the latest revival with an unapologetic dose of New York nightclub nostalgia (metallic leather and acid-wash jeans, anyone?). Antonio Berardi and Gucci's Frida Giannini also went ‘after-hours glam’ via crystal-studded mini-dresses and sharkskin suits respectively."
Closer to home, Sydney clothing label Honey & Beau has gone for a 1980s "glam rock" look for autumn/winter, with metallic fabrics, sequin embellishments, exposed zips, faux leather, and shoulder detail. Fellow Sydney clothing brand EnRose has also gone for the flashy retro look, with sequins, velvet, metallics, and heightened shoulders.
The influence of the 1980s means statement jewellery pieces – both real and faux – have also stayed in favour, according to New Zealand site Stuff.co.nz: "At the recent Lisa Ho winter runway show in Sydney, eye-popping neckpieces and cuffs were a stand-out."
Perth fashion designer Michelle Jank, who now divides her time between London and Paris, unveiled large, impressive pieces in a bespoke collection for Sydney couture jeweller Fairfax and Roberts, using round-cut diamonds, emerald-cut aquamarines and pink tourmalines.
“Big” is also the look for Jo Tory, the director of Sydney silver jewellery supplier Najo. "The popularity of ‘wow’ rings has really taken off and has been something Najo has been pushing right from the start," Tory says. "We’re continuing with this fashion and have even more spectacular rings in our autumn/winter collection."
Also in a nod to the 1980s in celebrity trends, America’s National Jeweler says, "Large cocktail rings remain red-carpet faves [and] hoop earrings are absolutely the number-one earring trend".
Another autumn/winter trend prediction for Style.com is "ruche hour". "Designers went completely drape for fall," the website reports. "Both miniskirts and jodhpurs came swagged in silk charmeuse at Balenciaga; no outfit was complete without five, six, or seven mix-and-match layers at Missoni's nouveau nomadic show; and the fluid evening numbers at Donna Karan and Oscar de la Renta were so red carpet-ready, they gave new meaning to the notion of destination dressing."
This laidback eclecticism is also being felt in jewellery.
"Long is still the fashion we’re pushing in necklaces – long, layered necklaces, with or without pendants," Tory says. "It’s sort of a glam-boho look. We’re also doing lots of stackable ranges – pearls, oxidised silver and beaten gold – because the fashion for stackable jewellery is huge."
Draping chains and charm bracelets also demonstrate a move towards jewellery looks becoming more casual, according to Jodie Coulthar, assistant designer of UK necklace and bracelet specialist, Assya. Coulthar told Watchshopuk.com the look is relaxed with a chic edge: "We’ve done key signs, which are more hippie with a chic edge. We’ve done designs from organic forms as well, taken from waves and flowers."
In a similarly ethnic vibe, National Jeweler says a popular look for celebrities has been piling on bangles, including rose-cut diamond versions, rose gold and hand-hammered, gold incarnations.
Danish jewellery brand Pandora has unleashed a new range, LiQuid Silver, which includes sterling silver bangles, designed to look as fluid as water.
Earthy hues continue the bohemian feel. Erica Madsen, director of Sydney pearl wholesaler Ikecho Pearls, says, "In autumn and winter, the earthy tones always do well, like brown and gold. We mix a lot of pearls with natural stones, like brown pearls with smoky quartz."
Pushing the ethnic vibe further, Sydney silver and cubic zirconia jewellery supplier Georgini has taken its designs to Russia for autumn/winter.
"Russia is a wintry sort of country, so it felt a perfect fit," says Georgini director Gina Kougias. "We’ve got babushka-doll neck pendants on long chains, beautiful enamel owls, crosses, and pendants inspired by the spires of a Saint Petersburg cathedral. We’ve also got mosaic-like motifs in black and white, inspired by the architecture inside the cathedrals."
The final key autumn/winter trend is the return of the classic, perhaps a reflection of the pared-back recession. Style.com calls it "smart investments", adding, "When the going gets tough, the tough wear camel hair. And pinstripes. The classics were back in full force on the runways - even rule breakers Christopher Kane and Miuccia Prada sent out double-breasted jackets, while Ralph Lauren and Marni's Consuelo Castiglioni went with tweed. In risky times, nothing spells sartorial security like a Burberry trench, a Chanel suit or, just possibly, a swaggering fur-lapel great coat from Hermès."
The classic mood has also flowed onto jewellery trends.
"We’re making a comeback with pearls and have introduced them into our range in a fresh, new look with long, cocktail-length, silver and pearl strands, with matching stackable rings, bangles and earrings," Tory says.
Black-and-white combinations are always classic, according to Vina Lambert, the director of sterling silver and cubic zirconia jewellery line Vina by Pinaroo: "We’re doing long, drop earrings in black stones, with cubic zirconia, and simple pearl bracelets and earrings. We use faux pearls, but they look like they’re worth millions of dollars! Champagne colours always go really well too."
Black-and-white designs and South Sea pearls are also a feature of Sydney jeweller Jan Logan’s 2010 collection – her latest campaign featuring actress Adelaide Clemens, exuding retro Hollywood glamour look.
Italian jewellery house Buccellati, known for its lace-like designs and fine engraving, has also just launched in Australia via Fairfax & Roberts. Director Andrea Buccellati, who visited Sydney for the launch, says the house prefers to keep things classic: "Some of our designs today are from 30 or 40 years ago. Our style is timeless. We believe people want to be more discreet today, rather than flashy. They’re looking more for quality."
So it seems there really is something for everybody as the temperature drops and, trends aside, there is always room for something startlingly-original, too. As Najo’s Tory says, you don’t have to look far to get the creative juices flowing either: "From fashion trends to art and design movements, architecture, food, toys and nature, inspiration is everywhere."
The forecast for autumn/winter? It’s going to be uber-cool.
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Posted February 01, 2010