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Monika Droste's Ying and Yang
Monika Droste's Ying and Yang
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JAA Jewellery Design Awards 2008

The JAA Jewellery Design Awards this year celebrated its 20th anniversary with a modish cocktail party and a treasure-trove of luscious new designs. BIANCA MANGION was on the guest list and later spoke with the winners.

Turing its back on the ceremonious format of past awards evenings, the JAA aimed to breathe new life into its flagship event with a sexy cocktail party at the Art Gallery of New South Wales in September.

All the right intentions were there - a fresh, youthful evening dedicated to cutting-edge designers, held at a venue that reflected the aesthetic beauty of their stunning creations.

Enlisting the aid of a PR firm to attract maximum consumer interest, the JAA seemed determined to put on a show: hot models paraded the winning jewels to admiring guests and a bevy of snappy photographers from mainstream media; a glossy, coffee-table consumer magazine was published to document the evening and its winning designs; and life-size posters depicting the pieces were erected around the room.

And the industry turned out in force, with double the number of projected guests attending - around 300 finalist/winners, sponsors, JAA members, media, JAA board and judges.

At times, it seemed too many. Vogue editor-MC Kirstie Clements -competed valiantly against a rising noise level as she compared jewellery to designer shoes, but one sensed she lost the battle.

Of course, the evening was designed as a networking opportunity, a chance for industry members to shake away the cares of a busy fair day and mix 'n' mingle with old friends - much like after-work drinks. But after the third and fourth glass of social lubrication, the chit-chat grew louder and didn't stop - even when world-famous diamond cutter Gabi Tolkowsky took the stage to announce the JAA Jeweller of the Year.

"Where is the respect?" one guest murmured into a glass of -champagne. But was it really the guests' fault? The consensus was mixed.

"The night was good in parts," commented JAA CEO Ian Hadassin.

"I wouldn't say it was an outstanding success, but a lot depended on where you were located at the venue."

The sponsors also left with mediocre impressions: "On paper, the awards night format was a great idea," said Ben Morrow, business -development manager at Opal Design Award sponsor Opals Australia. "Gallery of NSW is a fantastic venue and totally relevant to a jewellery -design award. Unfortunately, the execution left a lot to be desired - although this was somewhat out of the organisers' hands as many more people attended than were expected."

The main problem, according to Morrow and many others, was the -layout of the two-tired, L-shaped room. It allowed only those directly in front of the stage to see and hear clearly, while those to the side were seemingly forgotten; left to entertain themselves with more conversation.

Expertise Events managing director Gary Fitz-Roy - sponsor of the -Apprentice Design Award - also blamed the perceived lack of event -success on venue choice: "With the event being split over levels and -different areas, you could not hear the presenters nor see the screen and, unless you were near the kitchen, were unable to get food or drinks once everyone arrived."

Morrow echoes these sentiments: "The awkwardly-shaped, upstairs restaurant was full to capacity, and many people were unable to see the ceremony take place, although it could be heard - albeit at a distance."

On the upside, a full and chatty crowd is often indicative of a successful event. Morrow was pleased with the high-vibe of the capacity-crowd: "The mood of the attendees was upbeat to say the least. It was great to see so many people supporting the creative side of the jewellery industry."

Hadassin conceded organisers were unprepared for the amount of guests but did not view this as entirely negative: "There were too many people for the venue - it was unfortunate that the space wasn't designed to cater for all 300 comfortably. But in a way, the crowd was a good thing. To have over 300 people attend was a great achievement."

The CEO was pleased with the cocktail format and felt it worked to impart a casual, relaxed feel.

"The cocktail party allows people to mingle and network. I think people liked that they didn't have to dress up in black tie if they didn't want to and they could go home early if they wished," he said.

Indeed, the night did wrap-up shortly after the awards presentation - freeing guests to leave as they pleased - unlike in previous years when one felt fastened to their seat as they awaited their dessert course.

Hadassin said he did want the night to go a little longer, and will ensure the next event in 2010 invites guests to stay and play.

"It was a bit short. Next time there will be enough food and enough room for everyone to stand and see the proceedings properly. We will learn from the mistakes of this one and I'm sure the next one will be far better."

If there was a clear winner on the night, it was the entrants. Hailed as world-class, the jewels were truly breathtaking - and left some wondering why more is not done to celebrate the achievements of Australian designers.

"In the true Australian spirit, I think our designs always break new ground, but for some reason, we hold other countries' designs in higher esteem," Fitz-Roy commented. "After viewing the pieces this year, this should change anyone's view as to the high standard of Australian design.

Hadassin agreed: "The standard of this year's entries was very high and it just goes to confirm that the standard of design in Australia is extremely high. I believe it's world-class," he said. "Design in this country is stronger than most people - and even our industry realises.

"The future of jewellery manufacturing in Australia depends heavily on the quality of our designers, and the manufacturers making small or -one-off designs that are unusual and unique."

The JAA CEO cautioned against dismissing the importance of jewellery design to the overall health of the industry, stating new and innovative creations would ensure the trade's triumph over mass-production.

Perhaps this was why the designs truly were the heroes of the evening, with every attempt made to showcase them to their full glory.

Jeweller spoke to all category winners about their designs,- -experiences, inspirations and aspirations for the future.

 

Winner Grand Prix Award, Roy -Warfold Trophy Jeweller of the Year and Coloured Gemstone Award

Thomas Meihofer and Stacey Illman

Age: 47 and 31 respectively

Employer/business: Thomas Meihofer Jewellery Design

Industry experience: Swiss born, Thomas came to Australia to work as a jeweller in 1989 and -established his business as an independent designer and -manufacturer of jewellery in 1992. In 2003 Thomas established his own jewellery outlet, with his partner Wendy, under his own name in Subiaco. 

Stacey worked as a jeweller at Solid Gold for six years before working for Thomas since 2000. Stacey is the workshop manager at Thomas Meihofer Jewellery Design. She has a background in classical jewellery and has developed a passion for -contemporary jewellery design.

Awards and accolades: Finalist - Harper's Bazaar and Diamond Guild of Australia Jewellery Awards - 2005

Finalist - Harper's Bazaar and Diamond Guild of Australia Jewellery Awards - 2007.

Design inspiration: The gemstone itself, which is a hawk's eye stone, cut into a ring. We were careful not to detract attention from the natural beauty of the stone, so the intricacy of the design is only evident when viewed from the side.

The original concept and gold casing in the raw was Thomas' work while Stacey completed the pattern design, execution and finishing. The greatest difficulty was finding a way to form the gold casing to fit the stone perfectly.

Unique feature: The effect of the stone and the uniqueness of the design. It is a bold piece, not -overly-complex yet interesting.

 

 

Winner Diamond Design Award (retail value up to $5,000)

Alison Page

Age: 33

Piece: Totem

Employer/business: Freelance Designer with a practice in Coffs Harbour. I am collaborating with Mondial Neuman in the creation of Diamond Dreaming, a collection of contemporary Aboriginal jewellery.

Industry experience: For the last 10 years, I have brought an Aboriginal -perspective to Australian design through architectural, interior, exhibition design and public art projects. I am a member of the award-winning Aboriginal architecture group Merrima Design. Now, I am designing contemporary Australian Aboriginal jewellery.

Two years ago, Michael Neuman from Mondial Neuman had seen me as a judge of the ABC TV program The New Inventors (which is now in its fifth season) and contacted me to collaborate on an idea that he had thinking about for years, which was to design contemporary Aboriginal jewellery. I jumped at the chance.

The pieces I have designed build on a tradition of Aboriginal design that is layered in meaning and expresses a connection to the land, family and storytelling.

We wanted to create beautiful objects that contain stories about land and family and our -connections to it. They tell these stories with exquisite natural coloured diamonds, precious metals and the finest -craftsmanship. The jewellery offers an invitation to share the spirit of the world's oldest living culture.

Awards and accolades:

Winner - International Federation of Interior Architects Design -Contribution Award - 1999

Winner - NSW Local -Government Culture Award - 2008

Design inspiration: Many cultures around the world identify with totems and symbols that express their connection to nature and the earth. In Australian Aboriginal culture, the shape of a mountain, a rock or a river could reveal your totem, which is why the piece has been abstracted - so that the wearer can interpret it.

 

Winner Platinum Design Award

Jason Ree

Age: 36

Piece: Fusion

Employer/business: Jason Ree

Industry experience: I worked with my father, John, as well as a few other jewellers during my apprenticeship. I then travelled overseas to meet other jewellers and learn from them also before finally establishing my own design studio.

Awards and accolades:

Winner - JAA Australian Jeweller of the Year - 2002

Winner - JAA Australian Jeweller of the Year - 2004

Design inspiration: A sculpture/installation in the Victoria Albert Museum, London. I knew I wanted to have these fine wires with diamonds at the end. One problem was to make it strong and wearable - hence the twisting of the wires, which gives spring and rigidity - the other was fusing the diamonds to the gold, which was much more complicated and resulted in quite a few burnt diamonds.

Unique feature: It uses a new technique never seen before.

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Winner Apprentice of the Year and Apprentice Design/Craftsmanship Award

Luke Jackson

Age: 19

Piece: Roller Coaster of Love 

Employer/business: Verity Showcase Jewellers

Industry experience: I am currently a second year apprentice but my parents have been involved with jewellery their whole lives, working as watch reps and office staff for Citizen Watches Australia. For the last 10 years, my parents have been running Verity showcase Jewellers in Perth and Geraldton.__

Awards and accolades: _Winner - First Year Apprentice of the Year Award WA - 2007 Silver medallist - WorldSkills WA - 2007

Selected - WorldSkills Australia - 2008

Finalist - AGR Next Generation Jewellery Design Competition - 2007

Design inspiration: I was looking to create something fun and different. Once I had thought of the roller-coaster design, I drew inspiration from the old-day -wooden-framed roller-coasters, looking up dozens of pictures on the internet._I was actually taking a break from trying to design something for the competition and was just doodling on a piece of paper. I drew a line of swerves and loops and thought it looked like a roller-coaster track. The more I thought about it, the better I thought it was. __

 

Winner Computer Aided Design Award

Liana Coetsee

Age: 23

Piece: Global Translation

Employer/business: Nina's Jewellery

Industry experience: I started my jewellery career in South Africa seven years ago where I helped my cousin in a store called "Die Goudsmid" (The Goldsmith). Here I did some basic training and became familiar with designing. I really loved what I was doing and decided to take it up as a career. I studied at the Tswane -University of Technology for three years, achieving my diploma in Jewellery Design and -Manufacturing. This included courses in art history, business skills and gemology. I also completed a course in Rhino 3D.

I got a job at Déonne le Roux Jewellers in Pretoria, one of South Africa's leading jewellers, and learned more about designing and Matrix. To broaden my horizons and pursue a dream of living in Australia, I started looking for a position. Steve Turner of Nina's Jewellery heard about me through the grapevine and gave me a call. I got the position as designer at Nina's - they sponsored my move to WA and I'm -currently still working at Nina's Jewellery in Dunsborough.

Here I've got the freedom of design and expressing my creativity as I did in the JAA competition piece. Nina's supports me and everyone works together as a team.

Awards and accolades: This is the first.

Design inspiration: It was inspired by the statistics from Al Gore's film, An -Inconvenient Truth. Each individual piece represents the whole earth in half a millennium, taking into consideration global warming and water levels rising, yet causing continents to become smaller.

Diamonds bring joy to those who wear them while -being part of capturing and -containing carbon for -eternity. The river of neoprene is -ever-present running through the centre of the earth, -representing the products we use and the challenges we can overcome to fight this -environmental crisis.

Unique feature: It is a truly innovative design relevant to issues that society is currently confronting.

 

Winner Diamond -Design Award (retail value $5,000 or above)

Nadia Neuman

Age: 34

Piece: Truth - Love - Desire

Employer/business: Mondial Jewellers

Industry experience: I come from a family business in jewellery design.

Awards and accolades: I have entered six pieces in competitions - DeBeers, JAA and Harpers and have been a finalist for all of them. This, however, is the first time I have won.

Design inspiration: I believe jewellery should have meaning. It should represent an important moment in your life, someone you love or something you want to say. It should tell you about the beliefs, the desires and the character of the one who wears it. The necklace is designed to be worn in alignment with the Chakras. I have always believed that gemstones have the ability to affect your energetic field. Chakras are the body's center of activity that receives, assimilates and expresses life force energy. The colour of the diamonds are directly related to each Chakra and their desired effect.

Unique feature: An extremely high-end piece of jewellery, very -well-made with some of the finest and rarest gemstones in the world. It tells you a story; it has meaning and symbolism.

 

Winner Pearl Design Award

Denzil Lewis Price

Age: 56

Piece: Moon Dance

Employer/business: Tiaura - (Sole trader)

Industry experience: In 1968, I started a six-year apprenticeship in Perth and was trained by Swiss and German Master Jewellers. Soon after my -apprenticeship, I moved to Brisbane where I had the -opportunity to work with a broad diversity of jewellery styles. On returning to Perth, in 1978, I collaborated more with jewellery designers and started training apprentices in the workshop situation. I worked for 12 months as a master pattern maker prior to moving to London in 1987 for a five-year term.

Initially I worked with a team of master pattern makers and designers in Hatten Garden. Following this, I worked in a co-operative in Clarkenwell called Cockpit Workshops where I began in the exploration of design ideas and new techniques. During this period of time, I saw success with my pieces selling through Jess James Galleries in Soho London.

Upon my return to Australia, I concentrated on producing my own designs for clients as well as consignment work. Concurrently I taught Jewellery Drawing and Design at Central Metropolitan College of Tafe in WA.

In 2004, I started Tiaura and today I am concentrating on fine handmade jewellery while further -exploring and developing my own distinctive expression.

Awards and accolades:

1993 - First Prize - Shinju Matsuri Pearl Jewellery Design Awards, Broome WA

1994 - First Prize - South Sea Jeweller Design Awards, Broome WA

1997 - Finalist - Pure Creation - Pearl Design Awards

1998 - Finalist - Pure Creation - Pearl Design Awards

1999 - Finalist - De Beers Australian Diamond Design Awards

2000 - First Prize - Lightening Ridge Opal Design Awards

Design inspiration: Moon Dance was inspired by the contrast of shapes in the folding of waves and the distinct symmetry of crystal structures. When the piece is placed on its curved surface with the pearl at the top, the rocking motion resembles a dancing moon. I wished to design a ring to accommodate a large pearl that would rest directly on the finger in a simplistic way. I used a single plate of 18-carat white gold that I curved into a shape, allowing the pearl to rest directly on the finger.

 

Winner Gold Design Award 

Monika Droste

Age: 30

Piece: Ying and Yang

Business/employer: Venerari

Industry experience: I literally grew up in the workshop. I started experimenting and working at the bench from around the age of 10. My father is a master jeweller back home in Germany and both he and my mother have operated our family business for over 40 years, so becoming a jeweller came naturally to me.

After completing my apprenticeship, I worked at different jewellers around -Germany for several years. I thoroughly enjoyed school and learning different -techniques so, at the age of 24, I decided to return to university to complete my -Masters in Gold and Silver Smithing. I have a great passion for any kind of -hammering techniques, like Mokume Gane.

Awards and accolades: No others.

Design inspiration: The bangle expresses the sense of a wave symbolising the ups and downs in life. The colour of the ceramic ends represent the colour of the ocean, it's a reminder that all life evolves from the ocean. Derived from the passion I have for touch, my aim was to create a very smooth piece that was pleasing to feel. I wanted it to be unique and unlike any other design - so no one could reproduce it in a way that I did. Every single bit is handmade, hammered by me. The hinge at the bottom of the piece is technically perfect.

 

Winner Apprentice

Design Award

Ryan Silvester

Age: 22

Piece: Genuflexion Soleus

Employer/business: Jewellery By Design, Townsville

Industry experience: I tried to secure an apprenticeship while living in Brisbane but was unsuccessful. It seemed the base requirement for entering the industry was a little experience, but to get that experience was almost impossible. Eventually, Michael Ferguson and Brian -Bretherton allowed me to do some work experience with them. They showed me a lot in the few months I was there and gave me a brilliant reference for the only available apprenticeship in Queensland at the time, which was in Townsville.

I moved up to Townsville and started my -apprenticeship with Jewellery By Design, working alongside JAA finalist Jed Waghorn and head jeweller Martin Linning. I'm due to complete my apprenticeship in August 2009.

Awards and accolades:

Shortlisted - Art Express Exhibition NSW - HSC (Year 12).

Design inspiration: I wanted to create a new way to wear jewellery. During summer here in Townsville the beach is the best place to be, so I designed a piece that could be worn with class in that casual setting. I also believe the piece could be the ultimate jewellery accessory for the red carpet.

Unique feature: It pushes the boundaries of jewellery design and my background in visual arts has helped me portray my idea effectively in the drawing.

 

 

 










ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Bianca Mangion
Staff Journalist • Jeweller Magazine

Bianca Mangion has been involved in the industry for almost nine years. Embarking on the trade as a retail assistant at an independent Melbourne bench jeweller, she quickly developed a knowledge and passion for diamonds, gems, pearls and high-end fashion jewellery.
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