Every gemstone has a story — where it comes from, who shaped it, and the culture it’s tied to.
These details don’t just add charm, they add real meaning and value.
As a jeweller, sharing these stories can create a more memorable experience for your customers. And so, whenever possible, it’s important to get out from behind the desk, counter, or bench and journey into the real world.
After decades of travelling to Jaipur in India to source gemstones, forging countless friendships and professional ties, I have earned an informal yet invaluable access.
This ‘clearance’, if you will, has opened doors to truly remarkable experiences in recent years.
For the past three years, I have been immersed in an ongoing photography project, seeking permission to enter the inner sanctums where the world’s finest gemstones are meticulously shaped.
These efforts have led me into intimate, hidden spaces where cutting, drilling, stringing, slicing—and the artisans behind them — come together in a quiet symphony of skill.
In my earliest visits to Jaipur, I often suspected that the demonstrations offered to visitors were choreographed displays — performances designed for tourists, much like the puppet shows at the historic havelis now converted into boutique hotels. And indeed, I’ve since learned this is partially true.
You're often shown what they think you want to see. There is relatively open access to those working with quartz, ornamental stones, and glass-filled rubies.
These encounters are no less fascinating to me; however, it is not just the gemstones, but also the people and their stories that interest me.
One such moment occurred enroute to a high-end tanzanite cutting house, when I stumbled upon a room where three artisans were crafting large imitation emerald and sapphire doublets.
I seized the opportunity to photograph and film as much as possible — footage that will undoubtedly be of great value to my staff and gemmology students.
That same day, my hosts and I ventured beyond the ancient walls of the Pink City, driving eastward through a labyrinth of narrow, bustling streets.
As we entered a predominantly Muslim quarter, the attire of those we passed shifted markedly, reflecting the vibrant diversity of Jaipur’s communities. We arrived mid-morning, strategically avoiding the chaos of rush hour and the disruption of prayer times to ensure a respectful visit.
Our destination was a modest yet robust building on a lively side street. There, we were met by brothers Basheer and Zaheer, central figures in the operation.
The thick stone building opened into a large, tiled room that offered immediate relief from the heat outside. Rows of neatly arranged shoes lined the wall — a subtle sign of the common harmony between home and workplace in Jaipur. Beyond a heavy iron-gated doorway lay a central open courtyard, flanked by various rooms and corridors, with three additional stories rising above.
This compound serves both as a workplace and a multi-generational home — an arrangement not uncommon in the city, where space is often multifunctional.
I could hear the familiar whir of cutting machinery echoing from distant rooms; however, on this visit, I was to see just one: the primary cutting room where the most skilled artisans worked.
Inside, an extended, low workbench — painted a striking orange — held three faceting laps. The vivid green of the polishing compound offered a visually striking contrast. Each lap could be accessed from both sides, allowing for six cutters in total. On this day, four were at work, seated cross-legged on cushions.
Basheer and Zaheer sat opposite each other, while two more cutters shared the third lap. The quiet rhythm of faceting, inspecting, and measuring was hypnotic.
Small batches of tanzanite, their hues ranging from exquisite violet-blue to deep, regal purple, waited in line, dopped and ready for the next stage.
Zaheer alternated between two delicate tasks. First, he expertly affixed tanzanites, ranging from 5 to 18 carats, to green, cigar-like dops using dopping wax melted over a candle. With precise, near-microscopic adjustments, he aligned each stone by eye. Then, once faceted, he gently submerged the stones in iced water before deftly detaching them with a flick of his thumbnail.
This seemingly casual motion belied the precision and timing required — too long in the cold, and thermal shock could ruin a gemstone of considerable value.
This cutting house enjoys a stellar reputation, supplying gemstones to some of the world’s most prestigious jewellers.
The three hours I spent photographing the artisans were a rare privilege — one I hope to repeat. With greater familiarity, I plan to return to capture formal portraits of each cutter, images worthy of their talent and dedication.
The following day, I returned for a different purpose: to select calibrated and single gemstones for our upcoming tanzanite collection. The quality across all parcels of calibrated sizes was exceptional.
Unlike the shallow cuts preferred by mass-market manufacturers, who prioritise weight over craftsmanship, these stones displayed a superior balance of depth, colour, and artistry.
It must be said that knowing the craftsmen and artisans who shaped them only deepens my appreciation.
Their skill, dedication, and quiet mastery breathe life into each gemstone — and that, above all, is what makes them truly special.
Name: Brendan McCreesh
Business: O’Neils Affiliated
Position: Owner
Location: Australia
Years in the industry: 30+
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