The story of steel

Stainless steel had an industrial birth, but Tennille Secomb discovers over the past 150 years, the alloy has cast off its shackles to emerge as a major jewellery category in its own right, both in Australia and internationally.

In the wake of the industrial revolutions taking place throughout the 19th century, stainless steel sprang forth from a working-class family of metals – miles from the precious metals typically considered fine jewellery. Now, more than one century later, stainless steel jewellery sits auspiciously beside its once distant relatives in many jewellery retail stores across the country and abroad.

How did it all happen?

R J Scanlan

The prolific development of iron during the first industrial revolution revealed the incredible corrosion resistance of iron-chromium alloys that gives stainless steel its resilient quality.

When French metallurgist Pierre Berthier was experimenting with metal alloys in 1821, he discovered that a 10.5 per cent chromium content was required in order to ensure the metal’s durability – a conclusion that would later become the modern-day standard for stainless steel.

This type of steel alloy was widely used for industrial purposes, such as railways, vehicles and appliances, and the first stainless steel patents were granted in the early decades of the 1900s.

It wasn’t long before jewellers became curious about stainless steel for the exact industrial properties that had previously differentiated it from its finer metal counterparts.

Capitalising on its hard-wearing yet durable nature, stainless steel entered the jewellery market in the early 1900s in the form of watches, although the Cartier dynasty, created by Louis-Francois Cartier in Paris in 1847, was reportedly manufacturing men’s watches several decades before the turn of the 20th century.

Pastiche

Stainless steel’s historical context helps to explain why its primary appeal was among men. With stainless steel watches, designers had cornered a niche market of consumers that could be lured in by the metal’s resilient properties, stylish appeal and an affordability that seemed to offer everlasting value.

Steeling the limelight
Fast forward to the 1980s, and stainless steel jewellery had expanded to include bracelets, rings and earrings as the metal became a way of obtaining ”must have” pieces that would otherwise be unaffordable if designed in other white metals.

With its ease of fabrication, corrosion-resistant nature and aesthetic appeal, stainless steel provided a more accessible and practically-appealing range of products that opened up the jewellery market to a demographic previously untapped by the industry.

Michael Parry has been managing Parrys Jewellers for 26 years. He says the family business, which was established in 1975, has always stocked stainless steel watches; however, trends developing over the past decade have led him to begin stocking stainless steel jewellery as well.

“In the last ten years, stainless steel jewellery has been coming more onto the market,” Parry says, “ more to the fact that other precious metals have become more expensive, silver in particular. With stainless steel, you can get something that’s quite effective in appearance for much cheaper.”

Parry has noticed a shifting perception towards the metal that is celebrated for its practical and surgical qualities – stainless steel is recommended by doctors to patients as it prevents adverse skin reactions to nickel, which can be found in sterling silver and gold lower than 14k – and he indicates that the increasing use of stainless steel in jewellery is a result of searching for a material that was both cost-effective and durable enough for daily use.

Innerpower

“I think people are far more accepting of stainless steel because of the benefits – it won’t tarnish when compared against something like sterling silver, which can tarnish with acid action in the skin,” Parry says. “The wear properties are also very good, and that’s why a lot of people are looking at stainless steel because it’s hard, it’s durable, it doesn’t discolour and it’s inexpensive, so there are a lot of plusses for it.”

As stainless steel jewellery designs develop further, the metal is now expanding beyond its traditionally masculine consumer demographic and appearing in more feminine styles.

Parry is confident that while the male market will remain strong, the future will see stainless steel winning more female fans as respected brands turn their focus towards using it in their women’s ranges.

“The market is definitely growing and I think the market in lady’s stainless steel will increase,” he says, adding, “While men’s stainless steel ranges are predominately where it’s at, brands like Pastiche are increasing their female range and the designs are taking on more of a classical, fine look, rather than a chunky, heavy, grungy look.”

Vicki Linklater, sales manager and buyer for the Regency Group, echoes Parry’s sentiments about the growing acceptance of stainless steel into the jewellery market.

“We’ve been stocking men’s stainless steel jewellery and watches for quite a while but we actually ended up getting a range of ladies jewellery about 18 months ago,” she says. “It’s gone really good and probably even better over the past six months.”

Cudworth

Linklater explains that the most popular items are earrings and bangles for women, and pendants and dog-tags in the men’s range.

“With the price of gold going up, it makes it much more affordable. You can buy something that looks like it’s not in that price range, and the quality of the steel is a lot better now as well,” she adds. “I can see [stainless steel jewellery] getting bigger because a lot of suppliers are actually doing more ranges in stainless steel, so I think it will grow.”

A silver sister
In the current technological climate where practicality is paramount, stainless steel has established itself as a contender against white metals because of the long-lasting value afforded by stainless steel’s durable nature and inexpensive production.

Polished clean of its industrial past, stainless steel no longer has to hide in the shadow of finer white metals as it secures a stable position within the jewellery industry.

Stainless steel jewellery has emerged as a category in its own right, but that’s not to say it has become a replacement for other precious white metals.

Many fine jewellery retailers still do not carry stainless steel jewellery, but with the price of fine metals escalating both in Australia and internationally, it is becoming a desirable alternative for an increasing middle-market consumer base.

Posted April 01, 2014