The exhibition features more than 30 tiaras, necklaces and bracelets, along with pieces associated with Elizabeth Taylor, Grace Kelly, Andy Warhol, Princess Margaret and Rihanna. Nearly 300 of the items are being displayed in Australia for the first time.
The NGV partnered with London's Victoria and Albert Museum (V&A) to present the exhibition. In an interview with ABC News, NGV director Tony Ellwood emphasised its scale and quality.
"It’s really other-worldly to look at the quality and just the ambition of the designers and the wearers," he said.
"We are talking about the finest craftsmanship in the world, alongside some of the most famous people in the world."
NGV senior curator of international exhibitions Miranda Wallace noted that Melbourne-born opera singer Dame Nellie Melba was a Cartier client during the brand’s international expansion in the early 20th century. Wallace cited a 1902 performance at Melbourne Town Hall, where Melba appeared on stage adorned with numerous Cartier jewels.
"She was basically studded with Cartier jewels, a turquoise and diamond necklace, suspended pearls, and those pieces are what we have on display," she said.
"To get an image of what she must have looked like, almost lit up on stage, glittering with these wonderful jewels, is really remarkable."
Cartier was founded in Paris by watchmaker Louis-François Cartier in 1847. His grandsons, Pierre, Louis, and Jacques, took the jewellery brand to London and New York, and King Edward VII described Cartier as the “jeweller of kings and the king of jewellers” in 1904.
The exhibition is open at the National Gallery of Victoria in Melbourne until October.
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Cartier
The Cartier Style |
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Necklace Cartier London, 1932, special order emerald (143.23 carats), diamonds, platinum Commissioned by Beatrice Mills, Countess of Granard Cartier Collection | Necklace Cartier Paris, 1936, special order, modified in 1963 sapphires, emeralds, rubies, diamonds, platinum, white gold Commissionned by Daisy Fellowes, French socialite Cartier Collection | Brooch, originally set as a head ornament Cartier Paris, 1922 platinum, yellow gold, diamonds, enamel Cartier Collection | Twin chimera-head bangle Cartier Paris, 1961 emeralds, diamonds, coral, platinum, white gold, yellow gold Sold to Daisy Fellowes, French socialite Cartier Collection |
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Cartier's Panther: Evolution of a Motif |
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Panther-pattern wristwatch Cartier Paris, 1914 diamonds, onyx, platinum, rose gold, moire Cartier Collection | Necklace Cartier Paris, 1935, special order star rubies (82.13 carats total), rubies, enamel, gold Cartier Collection | Panther clip brooch Cartier Paris, 1949 sapphires, emeralds, diamonds, platinum, white gold Owned by Daisy Fellowes, French socialite Private collection | Necklace Cartier, 2014 greenish yellow beryl (121.8 carats), green sapphire (4.31 carats), diamonds, natural pearls, sculpted black jade, onyx, platinum Cartier Collection |
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An Obsession with Stones |
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Necklace Cartier Paris, special order, 1951 rubies, diamonds, platinum, yellow gold, white gold Platinum, yellow gold, diamonds, rubies Made as a special order for Lady Deterding Cartier Collection | Bracelet Cartier, 2015 opal (189.345 carats), blue sapphires, purple sapphires, emeralds, diamonds, white gold Cartier Collection | Tiara Cartier London, 1937 aquamarines, diamonds, platinum Cartier Collection | Necklace Cartier Paris, 1934 jadeite beads, platinum, gold, diamonds, rubies Cartier Collection |
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Jeanne Toussaint |
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Bib necklace Cartier Paris, 1947, special order amethysts, turquoise, diamonds, platinum, gold Commissioned by the Duke of Windsor, who supplied the amethysts and diamonds, for the Duchess of Windsor Cartier Collection | Panther clip brooch Cartier Paris, 1949 Platinum, white gold, diamonds, sapphires including one 152.35-carat cabochon-cut sapphire. Owned by the Duchess of Windsor Cartier Collection | Freed bird brooch Cartier Paris, 1944 sapphire, diamonds, lapis lazuli, galalith (originally coral), platinum, gold Cartier Collection | Coffee bean necklace Cartier Paris, 1956, special order diamonds, platinum, gold Cartier Collection |
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Technical Ingenuity: Timepieces |
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Model a mystery clock Cartier Paris, 1914 Platinum, gold, rock crystal, white agate, sapphires, diamonds, white enamel Cartier Collection | Tank wristwatch Cartier Paris, 1920 platinum, gold, sapphire, leather Cartier Collection | Crash wristwatch Cartier London, 1967 sapphire, yellow gold, rose gold, leather Cartier Collection | Carabiner watch Cartier, 2024 sapphires, emeralds, rubies, diamonds, spinels, chrysoprase, lapis lazuli, turquoise, white gold Cartier Collection |
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Tiaras: Pinnacle of the Jeweller's Art |
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Scroll Tiara Cartier Paris, 1910, modified in 1912 diamonds, platinum Sold to Elisabeth, Queen of the Belgians Cartier Collection | Tiara Cartier Paris, 1907, special order diamonds, natural pearls, platinum Owned by Princess Marie Bonaparte, great-grandniece of Napoleon Bonaparte Cartier Collection | Tiara Cartier London, 1936, special order diamonds, turquoise, platinum Commissioned by the Hon. Robert Henry Brand, British civil servant and businessman Cartier Collection | Tiara Cartier London, 1930 diamonds, turquoise, platinum Owned by Nancy Astor, Viscountess Astor, American-born British politician Private collection |
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Bandeau Cartier New York, 1924, special order diamonds, natural pearl, platinum Owned by Nanaline Duke and passed down to her daughter, American philanthropist and socialite Doris Duke Cartier Collection | Tiara Cartier London, 1937 citrines (including one of 62.35 carats), diamonds, platinum, gold Cartier Collection | Tiara Cartier Paris, 1914 diamonds, natural pearls, onyx, enamel, platinum Cartier Collection | Sun Tiara Cartier Paris, 1907 (current fancy intense yellow diamond set in 2013) fancy intense yellow diamond (32.58 carats), diamonds, platinum, gold The Al Thani Collection |
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