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A major Cartier jewellery exhibition has opened at the National Gallery of Victoria, featuring nearly 400 pieces from the historic French brand in one of Australia's largest ever showcases. | Source: NGV
A major Cartier jewellery exhibition has opened at the National Gallery of Victoria, featuring nearly 400 pieces from the historic French brand in one of Australia's largest ever showcases. | Source: NGV

Doors open for legendary Cartier exhibition in Melbourne

A major Cartier jewellery exhibition has opened at the National Gallery of Victoria, featuring nearly 400 pieces from the historic French brand in one of Australia's largest ever showcases.

The exhibition features more than 30 tiaras, necklaces and bracelets, along with pieces associated with Elizabeth Taylor, Grace Kelly, Andy Warhol, Princess Margaret and Rihanna. Nearly 300 of the items are being displayed in Australia for the first time.

The NGV partnered with London's Victoria and Albert Museum (V&A) to present the exhibition. In an interview with ABC News, NGV director Tony Ellwood emphasised its scale and quality.

"It’s really other-worldly to look at the quality and just the ambition of the designers and the wearers," he said.

"We are talking about the finest craftsmanship in the world, alongside some of the most famous people in the world."

Tony Ellwood, Director of the National Gallery of Victoria
Tony Ellwood, Director of the National Gallery of Victoria
"We are talking about the finest craftsmanship in the world, alongside some of the most famous people in the world."
Tony Ellwood, National Gallery of Victoria

NGV senior curator of international exhibitions Miranda Wallace noted that Melbourne-born opera singer Dame Nellie Melba was a Cartier client during the brand’s international expansion in the early 20th century. Wallace cited a 1902 performance at Melbourne Town Hall, where Melba appeared on stage adorned with numerous Cartier jewels.

"She was basically studded with Cartier jewels, a turquoise and diamond necklace, suspended pearls, and those pieces are what we have on display," she said.

"To get an image of what she must have looked like, almost lit up on stage, glittering with these wonderful jewels, is really remarkable."

Cartier was founded in Paris by watchmaker Louis-François Cartier in 1847. His grandsons, Pierre, Louis, and Jacques, took the jewellery brand to London and New York, and King Edward VII described Cartier as the “jeweller of kings and the king of jewellers” in 1904.

The exhibition is open at the National Gallery of Victoria in Melbourne until October.

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NGV 2026 Melbourne Winter Masterpieces
Cartier

Installation view of CARTIER on display from 12 June to 4 October 2026, at NGV International, Melbourne. | Photo: NGV/Sean Fennessy
Installation view of CARTIER on display from 12 June to 4 October 2026, at NGV International, Melbourne. | Photo: NGV/Sean Fennessy

Installation view of CARTIER on display from 12 June to 4 October 2026, at NGV International, Melbourne. | Photo: NGV/Sean Fennessy
Installation view of CARTIER on display from 12 June to 4 October 2026, at NGV International, Melbourne. | Photo: NGV/Sean Fennessy

The Cartier Style

Necklace
Cartier London, 1932, special order
emerald (143.23 carats), diamonds, platinum
Commissioned by Beatrice Mills, Countess of Granard
Cartier Collection
Necklace
Cartier Paris, 1936, special order, modified in 1963 sapphires, emeralds, rubies, diamonds, platinum, white gold Commissionned by Daisy Fellowes, French socialite
Cartier Collection
Brooch, originally set as a head ornament
Cartier Paris, 1922
platinum, yellow gold, diamonds, enamel
Cartier Collection
Twin chimera-head bangle
Cartier Paris, 1961
emeralds, diamonds, coral, platinum, white gold, yellow gold Sold to Daisy Fellowes, French socialite
Cartier Collection
    
Installation view of CARTIER on display from 12 June to 4 October 2026, at NGV International, Melbourne. | Photo: NGV/Sean Fennessy
Installation view of CARTIER on display from 12 June to 4 October 2026, at NGV International, Melbourne. | Photo: NGV/Sean Fennessy

Installation view of CARTIER on display from 12 June to 4 October 2026, at NGV International, Melbourne. | Photo: NGV/Sean Fennessy
Installation view of CARTIER on display from 12 June to 4 October 2026, at NGV International, Melbourne. | Photo: NGV/Sean Fennessy

Cartier's Panther: Evolution of a Motif

Panther-pattern wristwatch
Cartier Paris, 1914
diamonds, onyx, platinum, rose gold, moire
Cartier Collection
Necklace
Cartier Paris, 1935, special order
star rubies (82.13 carats total), rubies, enamel, gold
Cartier Collection
Panther clip brooch
Cartier Paris, 1949
sapphires, emeralds, diamonds, platinum, white gold
Owned by Daisy Fellowes, French socialite
Private collection
Necklace
Cartier, 2014
greenish yellow beryl (121.8 carats), green sapphire 
(4.31 carats), diamonds, natural pearls, sculpted black jade, onyx, platinum
Cartier Collection
    
Installation view of CARTIER on display from 12 June to 4 October 2026, at NGV International, Melbourne. | Photo: NGV/Sean Fennessy
Installation view of CARTIER on display from 12 June to 4 October 2026, at NGV International, Melbourne. | Photo: NGV/Sean Fennessy

Installation view of CARTIER on display from 12 June to 4 October 2026, at NGV International, Melbourne. | Photo: NGV/Sean Fennessy
Installation view of CARTIER on display from 12 June to 4 October 2026, at NGV International, Melbourne. | Photo: NGV/Sean Fennessy

An Obsession with Stones

Necklace
Cartier Paris, special order, 1951
rubies, diamonds, platinum, yellow gold, white gold Platinum, yellow gold, diamonds, rubies
Made as a special order for Lady Deterding
Cartier Collection
Bracelet
Cartier, 2015
opal (189.345 carats), blue sapphires, purple sapphires, emeralds, diamonds, white gold
Cartier Collection
Tiara
Cartier London, 1937
aquamarines, diamonds, platinum
Cartier Collection
Necklace
Cartier Paris, 1934
jadeite beads, platinum, gold, diamonds, rubies
Cartier Collection
    
Installation view of CARTIER on display from 12 June to 4 October 2026, at NGV International, Melbourne. | Photo: NGV/Sean Fennessy
Installation view of CARTIER on display from 12 June to 4 October 2026, at NGV International, Melbourne. | Photo: NGV/Sean Fennessy

Installation view of CARTIER on display from 12 June to 4 October 2026, at NGV International, Melbourne. | Photo: NGV/Sean Fennessy
Installation view of CARTIER on display from 12 June to 4 October 2026, at NGV International, Melbourne. | Photo: NGV/Sean Fennessy

Jeanne Toussaint

Bib necklace
Cartier Paris, 1947, special order
amethysts, turquoise, diamonds, platinum, gold  Commissioned by the Duke of Windsor, who supplied the amethysts and diamonds, for the Duchess of Windsor
Cartier Collection
Panther clip brooch
Cartier Paris, 1949 
Platinum, white gold, diamonds, sapphires including one 152.35-carat cabochon-cut sapphire.
Owned by the Duchess of Windsor
Cartier Collection
Freed bird brooch
Cartier Paris, 1944 
sapphire, diamonds, lapis lazuli, galalith (originally coral), platinum, gold
Cartier Collection
Coffee bean necklace
Cartier Paris, 1956, special order
diamonds, platinum, gold
Cartier Collection
    
Installation view of CARTIER on display from 12 June to 4 October 2026, at NGV International, Melbourne. | Photo: NGV/Sean Fennessy
Installation view of CARTIER on display from 12 June to 4 October 2026, at NGV International, Melbourne. | Photo: NGV/Sean Fennessy

Installation view of CARTIER on display from 12 June to 4 October 2026, at NGV International, Melbourne. | Photo: NGV/Sean Fennessy
Installation view of CARTIER on display from 12 June to 4 October 2026, at NGV International, Melbourne. | Photo: NGV/Sean Fennessy

Technical Ingenuity: Timepieces

Model a mystery clock
Cartier Paris, 1914
Platinum, gold, rock crystal, white agate, sapphires, diamonds, white enamel
Cartier Collection
Tank wristwatch
Cartier Paris, 1920
platinum, gold, sapphire, leather
Cartier Collection
Crash wristwatch
Cartier London, 1967
sapphire, yellow gold, rose gold, leather
Cartier Collection
Carabiner watch
Cartier, 2024
sapphires, emeralds, rubies, diamonds, spinels, chrysoprase, lapis lazuli, turquoise, white gold
Cartier Collection
    
Installation view of CARTIER on display from 12 June to 4 October 2026, at NGV International, Melbourne. | Photo: NGV/Sean Fennessy
Installation view of CARTIER on display from 12 June to 4 October 2026, at NGV International, Melbourne. | Photo: NGV/Sean Fennessy

Installation view of CARTIER on display from 12 June to 4 October 2026, at NGV International, Melbourne. | Photo: NGV/Sean Fennessy
Installation view of CARTIER on display from 12 June to 4 October 2026, at NGV International, Melbourne. | Photo: NGV/Sean Fennessy

Tiaras: Pinnacle of the Jeweller's Art

Scroll Tiara
Cartier Paris, 1910, modified in 1912 
diamonds, platinum
Sold to Elisabeth, Queen of the Belgians
Cartier Collection
Tiara
Cartier Paris, 1907, special order
diamonds, natural pearls, platinum
Owned by Princess Marie Bonaparte, great-grandniece
of Napoleon Bonaparte
Cartier Collection
Tiara
Cartier London, 1936, special order
diamonds, turquoise, platinum
Commissioned by the Hon. Robert Henry Brand,
British civil servant and businessman
Cartier Collection
Tiara
Cartier London, 1930
diamonds, turquoise, platinum
Owned by Nancy Astor, Viscountess Astor, American-born British politician
Private collection
    
Bandeau
Cartier New York, 1924, special order 
diamonds, natural pearl, platinum 
Owned by Nanaline Duke and passed down to her daughter, American philanthropist and socialite Doris Duke
Cartier Collection
Tiara
Cartier London, 1937
citrines (including one of 62.35 carats), diamonds,
platinum, gold
Cartier Collection
Tiara
Cartier Paris, 1914
diamonds, natural pearls, onyx, enamel, platinum
Cartier Collection
Sun Tiara
Cartier Paris, 1907 
(current fancy intense yellow diamond set in 2013) 
fancy intense yellow diamond (32.58 carats), diamonds, platinum, gold
The Al Thani Collection
    


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