Once visitors fought through the busy registration booths at the recent 2007 Hong Kong International Jewellery Show, they were rewarded with a dazzling corridor of award-winning design from around the world. In the thick of it were the JAA Australian Jewellery Design Award winners, who held their own amongst impressive displays from Hong Kong, Japan and the 6th International South Sea Pearl Competition.
"It's no wonder the Australians and Japanese initiated the move to send their award winners," stated senior exhibitions manager Anne Chick. "The fair attracts over 30,000 worldwide visitors and, as a result, the award winners do see this as an international exhibition on a world stage."
JAA Chairman Brian Seiver, who personally transported the winning designs, and helped to set up the Australian display, agreed emphatically. Taking note of feedback from both local and international observers, he proudly stated, "We're world class. We're up there with the best of them."
With spider webs, bling and a modern take on the old-fashioned opal, the Australian winners displayed characteristic openness to design influences from all over the world.
"I don't know if there's a particularly Australian style," observed Dean Walker, JAA Jeweller of the Year. "I've always thought we're pretty cosmopolitan, so we get influences from everywhere and blend them all together."
Highlighting this, Walker's standout Mayanicon bangle incorporated ancient Mayan symbols, and excited keen interest and commentary throughout the week. Featuring moveable 18-carat white and yellow gold pieces, the bracelet is designed to change colour according to the wearer. "I actually don't like to have it sitting still in a display," Walker reflected. "I'd prefer people to handle it and have a play around. As a piece, it's more interesting to hold."
JAA Apprentice Design winner Ok Jin Jang's The Capsule of Dreams also intrigued observers, with intricate diamond powders bursting from a white gold pill, while Brett Stewart's Soirée featured a pavé-set ball loose inside a diamond grain-set cage. These pieces displayed an interactive, changeable element that struck a chord with the passing crowds.
The proliferation of silver, platinum and white gold amongst all award winners reflected this worldwide trend, as well as the flourishing pearl movement. Furthermore, innovative uses of wood, tortoiseshell, feathers, filigree and fur prompted associations with Deco and Futuristic design movements. Notable pieces included student champion Wong Yin's An Ugly Duckling - Swanlake Dance: light feather earrings reminiscent of 1920s design.
"They were brilliant, all of them," Walker declared. "I was really impressed. As well as the wearable pieces, some of the international designs were very artistic and abstract."
Walker admired Silver Pearl Bracelet Award winner Leo Cheng's Bearing, a different take on the Asian traditions of flowers and delicate patterns. "It's a modern platinum bracelet set with pearls and diamonds. The design was quite strong and futuristic, and it struck me as being along the lines of (only a little bit) what I was doing with mine."
As seen across the latest lines of the major brands at the fair, the gothic trend for spider webs and skulls was well represented. Nature's Tangled Engagement by JAA Diamond Design Award winner Jacinta Childs was a delicate spider-webbed necklet and detachable drop, set with diamonds in frosted 18-carat white gold. With suggestions of cobwebs, bats and occult themes seen throughout the trade fair, it is likely this style will become marketable in future seasons.