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Since the conflict between Russia and Ukraine began in 2022, much of the discussion in the jewellery industry has rightly centred on the diamond trade. | Source: Shutterstock
Since the conflict between Russia and Ukraine began in 2022, much of the discussion in the jewellery industry has rightly centred on the diamond trade. | Source: Shutterstock

Violence reshapes jewellery culture in Ukraine

Since the conflict between Russia and Ukraine began in 2022, much of the discussion in the jewellery industry has rightly centred on the diamond trade.

The exclusion of Russian diamonds from Western markets due to punitive sanctions has dominated headlines; however, according to a new report from Yahoo News, the conflict has also had a direct impact on jewellery culture in Ukraine itself.

According to journalist Adela Dubaviec, the influence of the conflict extends well beyond independent studios. Ukrainian jewellery brand Karpenko has built a reputation for producing military-inspired designs, including pendants shaped like drone propellers and tank tracks, as well as pieces incorporating stones from Snake Island, a symbol of Ukrainian resistance.

Founded by Oleksii, who enlisted after Russia's 2022 invasion, the company markets its products as ‘from a soldier for soldiers’.

"There are brigades, entire large brigades, that order corporate orders. They order pendants for the whole unit," said manager Svitlana Karpliuk.

Svitlana Karpliuk, manager at Oleksii
Svitlana Karpliuk, manager at Oleksii
"People who live in peace, who have lived and not seen it, they will never understand it."
Svitlana Karpliuk, Oleksii

She added that military-themed pendants are the company's most popular products and are frequently commissioned to honour fallen comrades, while smaller drone-inspired pieces have also found a strong civilian following.

For ceramic jewellery company Tsvite Teren, a collection of white peace doves launched just days before the invasion has become one of its strongest-selling ranges both domestically and internationally.

"We live in fire. Constantly. Even in Kyiv. That's how it is," said founder Olga Ostapenko.

"People who live in peace, who have lived and not seen it, they will never understand it."

One highlighted example was designer Kateryna Tytova, who fled the eastern city of Donetsk after it came under Russian occupation in 2014 and has rebuilt her workshop after it was destroyed during the 2022 invasion. Today, her collections draw inspiration from wartime symbols, viral internet memes, and moments of national resilience.

More reading
Russian diamond sanctions fail without tracing tech
Kimberley Process critics highlight structural flaws
Russian diamond producer re-elects CEO
Conflict Diamonds: Kimberley Process fails to reach agreement yet again
Diamond industry faces crisis as Trump raises tariffs

 











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